Curious little creatures will find anything you can imagine to get into.
Hypoallergenic --- no smell and no fleas!
Ingenious --- particularly when it comes to finding a place to hide.
Naughty --- only when you let them in areas they should not be in.
Clever in finding ways to get your attention is the little chinchilla.
Hungry --- especially for treats, and they will let you know it!
Incredibly unique is this little fur-ball.
Love is what you will learn from them because that is what you will get.
Laugher at all the antics they do is better than any medicine!
Adorable little rascals who happily reside in their cages, sleeping
peacefully while you work. When your work is done, they are ready to
play and help you laugh away all the troubles of the day.
*** They never need very much -- just fresh water and fresh food every
day and a little cage cleaning once or twice a week. In return they
excitedly run to greet you when you enter the room, want to play or sit
on your shoulder while you're on the computer or run across your papers.
A favorite trick of theirs is to steal your pencil while you do your
homework, but it can give him lead poisoning, so it's a 'no-no'. He/she
may decide your homework is rather tasty ... and will try it! Homework
with nibbled edges may have to be turned in to the teacher or your boss.
*** Be sure to schedule a special play time every day ... a minimum of
30 minutes ... try to make it the same time each day ... chinchillas prefer
being on a regular schedule. This time is just for you and your
chinchilla ... no distractions such as a book or a t.v. This is the time
you get to know your chin and visa versa. The time will fly by with all
the fun you'll have watching him/her run and bounce off walls and
furniture changing directions, with each bound of endless energy, but be
sure to chin-proof before letting him/her out of their safe cage.
*** Become a child again -- lie on the floor and let them play with you!
They'll tickle your nose with their whiskers and comb your hair with
their paws. If you're really lucky you'll get 'chinnie sugars', too. When
they sniff and smell, this is the proper way chins say "Hello." So please,
say "Hello" in return, in the proper chin manner, go nose to nose and
make a sniffing sound as you move down their side. They will accept
you as a "big chin'. A most delightful thought!
*** While you are on the floor, get a "chin's eye view" of all that is
available to get into and all the wonderful places to hide and explore,
they will find them if you don't. They are very curious creatures! Any
opening over 1" in diameter (about the size of a quarter) is a wonderful
place to explore for the chinchilla, but can be very dangerous for them!
They can fit into the smallest of places! (One of mine came up 'missing'
and was found in the top drawer of my filing cabinet. He got there by
going underneath and up the back side of the drawers. This works for
dressers, too. They love cozy hiding places, like the springs under your
mattress, couch or chair. If your chinnie is loose, don't sit or lay down
quickly.
*** Beware: They are very fast and can get away from you in the blink of
an eye. Always close the door to the room so you will have only one
room to search, should your little one get loose/lost. They are also
smart and strong for their size and some will even learn how to undo the
latches and escape from their cages when you leave the room (they're a
'pint-sized Houdini'). It's wise to double-lock the cage door and close the
door to the room ... it's impossible to properly 'chin-proof' the whole
house.
*** Chin-proof, chin-proof, chin-proof! Chins have been known to jump
from and up to, as high as 7 to 10 feet (their dept perception is not very
good)! Many people choose to play with their chins in the bathroom,
because it's small and easiest to watch where your chin is trying to hide.
If you do, make sure the lid is down and there is no water in the bathtub
or sink! Why the bathroom? It is the easiest room to chin-proof.
Chin-proofing means you make sure there is nothing your chin can get
into that is dangerous. Dangers for a chin can be anything they can find
to eat or chew on that is not good for them! They will chew on anything
- wood, electrical wires, your food, even metals and plastic! Their little
teeth are designed to demolish and redecorate! Their speed and agility
can allow them to, or cause you to, topple/break a drinking glass/bottle
or a jar. It's best to use a plastic bottle with a cap, or a plastic glass with
a lid or attached top while with your chin.
*** Don't worry about a fancy hut ... just a plain pine hut will do. They
will re-decorate it to suit themselves! Keep some sanding paper handy to
occasionally sand down any rough edges or stains they may leave. If
they nibble down to and expose a nail or screw, remove it or move it to a
safer place on the hut. Only seasoned untreated pine wood should be
used for their hut!
Hint: Screws are usually easier to move or remove than nails.
7" High 11" Wide 8" Deep
Made with 1" x 8" x 4'
Untreated Solid Pine
18 wood screws
4 metal "O" Rings
2 bolts with wing nuts
Cut: 2 sides 6 3/8" long
Top & Bottom 10 1/4" long
Back 11" long
*** The softness of their fur is only surpassed by the spot in your heart
they will make if you will let them come in. A gentle voice and a snuggle
close to you is usually all they will need to calm them. Hold them close,
but not too tight, for their tiny bones are fragile, and smaller than
toothpicks. Never, never squeeze or grab them. They have floating ribs
that can easily puncture their lungs, do not hold or grab them in the
chest area. A punctured lung usually results in a slow painful death for
your chin within 24 hours. Instruct anyone that is going to hold your
chin how do hold it properly, regardless of who that might be.
*** Let them jump into your hand or scoop them up, supporting their
hind feet and body at all times. A chin must feel safe and secure for
him to trust you! If you feel you must hold one in place (for his safety)
... while letting him nest in one hand (against your body or on a table)
use the other hand to hold him firmly, but gently, about an inch from
the base of the tail. Do Not hold them by the middle or end of the tail ~
you can break it.
*** A chin's fur can easily 'slip' (or be released by a chin) when you hold
it, if it does not want to be held. This is a means of protection that dates
back to the chinchillas in the wild. The fur will grow back, but that
takes 3 or 4 months.
*** If a little one becomes squirmy while you hold him, take him back to
his cage quickly. Chinchillas like to please you, so if he is trying to get
down, he may be trying to tell you he has to pee and does not want to do
it on you! Or, with his body temperature + your body heat, he may be
becoming over-heated and could have a heat stroke. A chinchilla's ears
can alert you to over heating. The ears will become pinker and the
veins will show. When this happens, he can be in trouble, so pay
attention to him.
*** Taking the time to learn their personalities is delightful (each one has
a different personality, unique to them). They have all the emotions
and feelings people do, please respect them for this. They will let you
know what they want or need in special ways. Pay close attention and
remember what they do, the sounds they make, or their location, when
they want something. It will let you know for future reference, what they
want/need. Listen to their sounds and watch where they stand in their
cage. A wonderful site to help you understand their sounds and what
they mean is at: http://www.chinchilla-sounds.de/index_en.htm.
*** Another reason for learning the normal things about your chin and
amounts of food intake, water intake and actions of your chinchilla is to
warn you of early signs of illness. When these things change, it can be an
early warning. In the wild, a chinchilla could not show any signs of
illness, weakness or injury, so it learned to hide or disguise this problem
... unfortunately, it still carries this trait today. By the time you realize
your chin is sick, it may be/almost be, to late. When a chin needs a vet,
they need them NOW, not later in the week or next week. Best to be safe
rather than sorry! Chinchillas can go down quickly.
*** Hungry? Some may turn their bowl over and stand on it to signal
that it is empty. Others may let you know with their front paws on their
bowl to show you that their bowl is empty and they are hungry. An
empty water bottle is brought to your attention often by the chin
pushing it or rattling it. Empty, wash and re-fill with fresh water daily!
Every day, without fail.
*** Try to get into a regular schedule for feeding your chin ... they thrive
on a schedule. You like your meals on time and look forward to them ~
they do, too! Morning and evening! A tablespoon or two each time for
each chin. You will learn to adjust the food amount by observing how
much food is left over or if the bowl is completely empty. It should never
be empty. Wash their bowls daily ~ you would not want to eat out of a
dirty dish, would you? Treats added to, or mixed in, with the chinchilla
pellets you feed them will provide an opportunity for them to eat the
treats and leave the pellets or dispose of the pellets for the preferred
treats. Please do NOT add treats to your chinchillas' pellets or buy
chinchilla pellets/food with treats in them! They are like little children
... If you put a bowl of ice cream and a plate of spinach in front of a
child, and let them choose freely, they will take the ice cream, fill up on
it and leave the spinach. The same goes for a chinchilla.
*** Treats are special ... make them so ... giving them separately. Use
them to reward your chin or to coax them back into their cage after play
time. Never feed your chin through the cage wires. Someone may stick
a finger in to pet them, only to find it will get nibbled (sometimes rather
hard), especially if there is the smell of food on it. Always play it safe --
wash your hands and face before handling your chin. They do not have
good sight, but their since of smell is very good ... if it smells good to
them, they will try to take a bite of it.
*** Each chin has its own special places to be rubbed or scratched. Under
the chin, behind the ears, on the belly, under the arm and on the front
of the collar bone are places I have found they most enjoy. The pleased
look on their faces will be evident. The way they tilt their head, raise up
their whiskers and close their little eyes in complete contentment is the
sign of a very happy chin! Sometimes they even appear to be smiling.
But, keep in mind, some chins are ticklish when it comes to their
whiskers ... best to steer clear of the whiskers ... chins usually do not
like to be tickled and will let you know it.
*** Just like us, sometimes chins can be a bit "moody." If one pushes
your hand away with its paws or "barks" at you ... take this as a sign that
it needs 'its' space.' Be respectful of this, the way you would want to be
respected under the same circumstances. But, talk softly to your chin
and you may change its' mind. Sometimes it just takes a little coaxing;
but if you persist and he continues ... don't 'push your luck' ... you may
get a nip, a bite or even get 'sprayed', if it happens to be a female
chinchilla!
*** It just takes a little time to learn what is, or is not, accepted by your
little chin. You have things, actions or mannerisms you will not accept,
so do chins, respect this, please. If they bite, do not hit or fuss at them,
you were doing something wrong, figure out what you did wrong and do
not do it again!
*** Bath time is another time to enjoy -- just wear a painter's mask! They
will flip and turn in their bath dust fast and furiously, flinging dust into
the air with complete joy. Chinchillas prefer to be clean! Dust bathing
is best done in a room without carpet. The bath tub or shower stall are
great ... all you have to do is wash the dust down the drain (as long as it's
just a little bit of dust). It doesn't seen to matter how much mess is
made because you are laughing so hard at this funny, furry little ball
flipping over and over in a pan of dust ~ flinging dust clouds into the air,
shaking it off like a miniature dog, then doing it again! Such a strange
way you might think to stay clean, but the dust absorbs the excess oils
and lanolin from the fur and keeps the fur soft, fluffy and in good
condition. The dust bath keeps the fur from matting, if the fur shows
signs of separating or matting, it's past bath time! Please use dust bath
dust ONLY ... not dust bath sand. I give my chins a dust bath 2 to 3
times a week. Some will give their chins dust bathes daily, and this is
OK if the humidity is high. When the humidity is low (under 35%),
sometimes due to an inside heating system in the winter, this is not
advisable and can cause the skin to dry out and, sometimes, even crack
open.
*** Normally, the rule is: never put your chin in water, unless instructed
to do so by your vet, in an emergency situation. If he/she does get wet
or covered in something sticky you need to clean him/her. If this
happens, I very carefully rinse away the sticky stuff with a warm, soft,
dampened wash cloth or baby wipe. If this does not do the job and
he/she is really messy ... I would put the chin in warm water, but try not
to get it any wetter than necessary. Then gently blot it with a paper
towel first, they are usually more absorbent than cloth. Then use your
bath or hand towel to help keep him/her from chilling, as you gently
blow it dry. You can blow dry with your mouth or with a blow dryer ... if
you use a blow dryer, use it only on the lowest settings (lowest heat and
lowest blow settings) and constantly move the dryer quickly back and
forth and about 8 to 10 inches away from your chin ... do not over heat
your chin! Chinchillas will easily chill when wet and become sick, so
please keep them warm until they are completely dry!
*** Temperature. The most comfortable temperature for a chin is
between 60 and 68 degrees. Do not exceed 70 degrees ... this, for any
length of time, can be lethal. If you travel with your chin: do not, even
for a minute or two, leave him/her in the car. The temperature rises
quickly inside a car. To many chin owners have returned to their car
only to find their precious little one gone from heat stroke. When the
outside temperature is 70 or 80 degrees F, a car can heat up to 120+
degrees in less than 10 to 15 minutes! Result: one dead chin. Even in
lower temperatures, (50 to 60 degrees) the sun can raise the
temperature inside the car to over 80 when the sun is shining directly
into the car. The best rule of thumb is to take the temperature (F) + the
humidity, if the total of the two numbers meet or exceed 150, your chin
is in trouble of heat stroke and/or death!
*** All the joy wrapped up inside a little ball of soft fur called a chinchilla
... this is what you now hold and are responsible for it's health and
happiness ... keep it healthy and happy and it may live 20 + years or
more when properly cared for by you!
*** Before you get your chin, find a good exotic pet veterinarian that
knows about, and has had experience with chinchillas, not all do. He or
she will become your best friend when your chin needs care. These are
usually listed as exotic pet veterinarians. If you do not have an exotic
pet veterinarian in your area, find a vet that is willing to learn, or at
least has had experience with guinea pigs, gerbils and hamsters, if an
exotic pet vet is not available. Many veterinarians will prefer NOT to
undertake the additional learning necessary to care for chinchillas ~ do
not assume they will be willing to do so. Please, check it out!
*** Your vet's office is much like a doctor's or hospital's waiting room ...
most every person there is sick. Cats can carry feline distemper ...
deadly within 24 hours for a chinchilla ... and highly contagious! As
time goes by and chinchillas are exposed to more, unfortunately, we are
finding out chinchillas can get other types of illnesses domesticated and
wild animals carry. But, chinchillas' systems is not as strong as that of
the domesticated animals. Protect your chin by not handling/petting
other animals or allowing your chin to be petted/touched by other people
in the waiting room. Just explain that you are not trying to be rude,
only trying to keep your chin safe. There are no vaccines to inoculate
your chinchillas, so, please, make sure your other pets are always
up-to-date on all of their shots.
*** Do not wait to contact the vet at a time when you really need him,
give him/her time to gather the information they will need to help you
before your chin needs him/her. It is best to let your vet see your chin
when it is healthy, so that they can have an idea what to compare it to
when/if it becomes ill. If you need to call the vet, be sure to be able to
give him/her specifics as to why your chin is not acting normal ...
Decrease in water intake? Eating less? Not as perky? Diarrhea or foul
smelling poops? Runny or matted eyes? Drooling? Mucous-covered
feces. All these are a sign of illness and need to be treated immediately!
The more your vet knows about the circumstances, the better/quicker,
he can treat your chin for what ever it has. Make notes, so you will not
forget everything to tell him. Sometimes we panic and can not
remember all we should under stress, please, write it down! I would also,
check the qualifications of the vet that will be covering for your vet if
they will be out of town.
*** You need to find a suitable place and room for your chin to live.
Chinchillas can NOT be put in direct sunlight due to the possibility of
overheating or in a draft from a window or air vent (hot or cold).
Remember that the sun may shine in one window one time of the day
and another window at a different time, or will shine on different parts of
the room at different times of the day. Watch the path of the sunbeams
throughout the day. Chins need to be in an area that does not get a large
amount of daily traffic, for this is when they sleep the most. Your
bedroom is normally considered unsuitable, because night time is when
chins play most and you normally sleep. However, many people can
become accustomed to the sounds of their chins and sleep peacefully.
Supplies for Your Chinchilla
*** When you purchase the supplies for your chin, remember he/she will
probably be with you for many years. Their life span is on the average of
10 to 15 years, some have been known to live as long as 20 + years, even
up to the mid 30s. Their supplies should be the best available that you
can afford.
*** The cage should be at least 17" x 23" x 30" and two or three levels
(and/or wooden leaping ledges) with side and top wire no more than 1/2"
x 1". The 1/2" by 1" or smaller wire is a must, not a guideline. When a
female chin becomes pregnant and delivers her kits, the top one or two
levels (leaving only the bottom level accessible) should be closed off and
not used until the kits are 3 to 4 weeks old. A whelping cage, no taller
than 12" to 15" is even better. Kits are born fully furred and eyes open.
Usually they will be playing within 15 to 30 minutes after being born.
Kits will usually climb (within 24 hour of birth) the sides of the cage as
high as possible ... they can climb up, but not down ... when they reach
the top they will just turn loose and drop to the bottom. Please make
sure the bottom level or the whelping cage is no taller than 15" and that
there is a good soft layer of bedding at the bottom. Wire under their feet
should be no larger than ½" x ½" to avoid a foot or leg being caught and
possibly broken, or the use of a solid bottom is good. Some owners prefer
wire, some wood and some a combination of wire and wood. When using
wood, remember, it must be cleaned regularly with sandpaper, especially
if your chin develops diarrhea or if it gets soiled with urine. This will
have to be your own personal choice. The wood should be pine and not
chemically treated! Please do not use pressed wood, plywood or
laminated wood. Most of these can contain a glue that is toxic to
chinchillas and can cause liver failure. Lamination will be eaten by your
chin and will not soften in the digestive track and can cause major
internal problems.
*** Personally, I prefer a combination of both wire and wood, with a
metal pull out tray, or drop in pan, for easy cleaning and for the safety of
your chin. Stainless steel looks best, last longer and is easier to clean, is
the most expensive on the front end, but is the best in the long run.
Galvanized steel can be used, and is less expensive but does not clean as
easily and can rust. Aluminum is a 'no-no', it will be eaten by your chin
and is dangerous for them! Yes, they will eat aluminum! How would you
like metal shavings in your tummy? I have one chin that can chew
through a 1/4" aluminum rod overnight.
*** Most cages come with a plastic pan, which is fine if there is a wire
bottom between the chin and the plastic pan. If not, you may find that
your chin has decided that the plastic is a good chew toy ... but not good
for the digestive tract ... no plastics, please! If there is no wire bottom,
or if you remove it, a metal pan of stainless steel or galvanized steel can
be custom made by a local metal-works business.
*** Keep in mind your chin will need air circulation, not a fan or a draft,
but the air must be able to circulate from the out side to the inside of
the cage the same as the normal air flow in your home. No aquariums,
please! Caution: Aquariums provide no ventilation, they allow heat to
build up inside of them, moisture from the chin's urine and/or feces, has
a perfect breeding ground for bacteria in an aquarium or an enclosed cage
without ventilation. Wood sides or bottoms restrict air flow and are a
breeding ground for bacteria. Wood cages may look good, but they are
not healthy for a chinchilla and are hard to keep clean.
*** The hut and shelves are best made of solid pine wood, in my opinion.
The huts do not have to be fancy, the chins will 'redecorate' them to
suite themselves. :) The huts need to be at least 5 to 6" deep and 6 to
9" long. I use a 5-sided hut and a slightly smaller 4-sided hut attached
to the top/side of the inside of the cage as a 'look-out'. Note: I said
attached to the side or top of the cage (with screws and solid rings) ...
huts can be flipped/turned over when chins play or when they decide to
re-arrange their cage, if they are not attached, a flipped hut can
kill/crush a kit or even an adult chin. Chins love to see what is going on
around them, please do not set cages on the floor, they prefer a place
where they can see everything that is going on.
*** Plan on sanding the wood a little, about every two or three weeks
(more often, if needed) to soften any rough edges where the chins have
chewed it. Also, if the hut is put together with nails or screws, keep on
the alert for chewed areas where your chin has exposed a nail or screw.
Remove and/or move the nail or screw. We use only screws, these are
much easier to move, when necessary. They also allow you to more
easily replace sides of the hut that have been chewed away. Some glues
are toxic, please do not glue your chins huts or toys together. Slide
together or set in pieces are great, but harder to replace.
*** NO PLASTICS, please, this can be fatal to them. They will chew on
the plastic and the pieces of plastic they ingest will remain sharp and
hard can cause internal problems. PVC pipe is the only exception to the
rule, that I know. PVC plumbing pipe comes off in a dust form, not in
pieces. 4" diameter "T"s and "Y" s are great for a chin to play in/hide
in/sleep in. ;)
*** The bedding is best made of pine shavings that have been dried or
come from seasoned wood or recycled paper that does not have any ink
on it. Do not use cedar or other hard woods, because many of them are
deadly to chins. Do not use fresh, unseasoned pine. DO NOT use wood or
wood shavings that have come from pressure-treated wood. Be sure the
wood you use is untreated pine. Caution: Many wood beddings made
for small pets contain cedar, cedar is deadly to chins. Make sure the
one you purchase does not contain cedar. Cedar is often used to control
odor and insects ... neither of which is a problem with chinchillas. Chins
do not have insects (such as fleas) due to their beautiful thick fur, fleas
can not reach the skin. Changing the bedding once a week or more will
control the odor of urine ~ chins have no other odors, except the females
in season, or if the chin is sick. If your have a good nose, you may smell
the slight odor given off by the female in season ... most do not even
smell it.
*** The food bowl is best made of ceramic, because it is usually the
heaviest with straight sides to prevent tipping. The bottom needs to be
flat and rather large in comparison to the size of the bowl. Straight
sides are a must so that it will not tip over. Chins tend to stand on the
side of the bowl when eating. Occasionally, even a ceramic bowl can be
tipped over, which is not a problem, unless a young kit is trapped
underneath it or gets hit by it. A metal food bowl that is attached to the
side of the cage is also a good option and can be found in the bird section
of most pet stores. "J" feeders, if you can find them, that are properly
attached to the cage are usually safe for the kits as well as the adult
chinchillas.
*** The water bottle should be made of glass, unless you like to clean up
water puddles and replace bottles frequently. Also, glass is easier
sterilized. Chins are notorious for chewing a hole in a plastic bottle, even
when it is mounted on the outside of the cage. However, a metal guard
placed between the plastic water bottle and the cage can often prevent
the chins from chewing it.
*** DO NOT place water in a bowl for your chins, especially if there is a
baby kit. If a chin becomes wet, it can easily chill and become ill. Kits
can drown in even the smallest of bowls. The bottles should be sterilized
at least once a week and washed in hot soapy water daily. Rinse and
refill with fresh water daily is a MUST. Do not just add water ... empty,
rinse and refill with fresh water. Water contains microscopic germs that
can multiply when water is left over 24 hours. These 'microscopic germs'
are usually harmless to us, but can kill a chin. Bottled water, after
opening, can also be a breeding ground for germs.
*** The food should be made for chinchillas only, in my opinion. There
are some people that will tell you that it is okay to feed chins rabbit
pellets, I do not agree unless it is Manna Pro Sho. In the United States
the hormones are not added to rabbit food. But, as I feed my cats cat
food, my dogs dog food, I also feed my chins chinchilla food, made
especially for them and their delicate systems. Check the freshness date
on the bag and also see if there is an excessive amount of sediment at the
bottom. If your chinchilla food is not dated ... don't buy it! If there is
very much sediment in the bottom, it may mean the food is old or has
been improperly stored and lost most of its nutritional value. In this
case, you would be giving them an empty filler with no nutritional value.
I use Mazuri Chinchilla Pellets, it has a date on the container that will
tell you the date it was made, this is known as the mill date. It will
retain it's nutritional value for 120 days from that date, if properly
stored, according to Purina Foods.
*** Food should be stored in a cool, dry place (preferably in a heavy
air-tight container), under 70 degrees. The higher the temperature, the
faster it will break-down, the lower the temperature, the longer it will
keep. If you use a different brand of food from which your chin is
accustomed, then your food needs to be introduced slowly into the diet.
The first week feed your chin only its usual brand of food (the same as it
was being fed before you got it). This way your chin's experiences with
changes it is experiencing at this time is kept at a minimum. Chins do
not like change. The second week you can begin replacing 1/4 of the
regular food with your new brand of food, then half and half the third
week, 3/4 new food to 1/4 original brand the fourth week, the last week
and there after you can feed it all the new brand. I always give you
enough food to make this change-over for your chin when you pick it up.
Or, if you are going to use the same feed, enough for about 2 weeks.
Read the labels ~ I do not recommend any bagged chin food that has
expiration dates of more than 90 days or has preservatives in it.
Chinchilla food that is normally advertised as "Deluxe" usually has added
treats, please do not offer this to your chinchilla. Chins will eat all the
treats and leave the pellets ... just like a kid with the choice of ice
cream/candy or spinach, will usually take the ice cream or candy and
leave what is good for them untouched.
*** The hay can be Timothy hay or alfalfa hay. I prefer the loose bale
Timothy hay for most of my adult chins and alfalfa cubes for the kits
and breeding/nursing females. The type of hay available in your area
may be the deciding factor as to which you feed them ... it MUST be
fresh and free of any bugs or mold. The hay can come in two different
forms -- loose bales or compressed cubes. Cubes should be broken up to
a size that the chin can hold in it's paws. Hay should be given to chins
fresh on a daily basis for roughage and nutrition in their diet and for
control of the molar and pre-molar teeth growth to prevent the teeth
from growing into the jaws/brain/tongue of the chin. Remove any
uneaten hay daily, it can be soiled by a chin's urine! Hay can mold and
produce a deadly bacteria called listeria monocytogenes. If a chin's teeth
are allowed to grow and not kept in check with hay and a lava stone
available on a daily basis constantly, this is called malocclusion ... at it's
worst, it is a painful death ... at it's best, it is uncomfortable and painful
constantly.
*** The dust bath dust can be purchased in most pet stores and should
be placed in a shallow pan (glass or metal) or a pan/container made
especially for dust baths. A thin layer (about 1/4" deep) of chinchilla
dust should be placed in the dish. The chin will do the rest. Which
includes a dust cloud, so be prepared! It is best to do this in a room
without carpeting. The bathtub or shower is easy to clean if you use
them as the place for your chin to use it's dust bath container. The dust,
if soiled with urine, (clumping is a sign of the dust being soiled with
urine) needs to be emptied and the container cleaned before being
refilled with a fresh layer of dust bath dust. Droppings should be sifted
out after each bath. If your chin is ill, use fresh clean dust bath dust each
time and wash the container between each use. When you see the dust
darkening or becoming grainy, it needs to be changed. Each cage of
chins should have their own dust bath ... no sharing containers between
cages. Sharing dust baths between cages can carry illnesses from one
chin to another.
*** I recommend Blue Cloud dust bath, if accessible. Please do NOT use
the sand type of dust bath, it is very harsh on your chin's fur. But, if
you, or someone in your family is allergic to the dust, sand can be used,
or even better ... someone else in the family can give your chin it's bath
in the proper dust bath dust ... dust made especially for chinchillas.
*** Supplements can be vitamin supplements, nutrients or calcium.
Please do not use liquid vitamins added to the water. Once the vitamins
are exposed to the light, they are weakened, and you do not know
exactly how much they have gotten into their systems. The vitamin
supplements can vary from special ones from your vet, to ones you can
order on line, such as the Kline Supplement, to their own treats. Calcium
supplements are found in calf manna or Alimax or cuttle bones, but know
your manufacturer and the quality of the calf manna. If, for any reason
your chins reject the calf manna, dispose of it ... it may be contaminated.
Calcium is a must with all chins, but especially with nursing chins and
growing kits. Vitamin C, with no added sugar, is a very good
supplement. Papaya is a good natural source for vitamin C. Nutri-Cal is
also a good supplement to keep on hand for nursing moms and sick
chins, but should only be used in place of treats not in addition to treats
and in very small amounts ... about the size of a small pea per day, when
they are sick. Petramalt is used to help rid your chin's system of
hair/fur balls in the digestive tract. And, on some occasions, help to
keep/get it's system going properly.
*** A lava stone is a MUST and is used to help keep your chins' teeth
(incisors or front teeth) down to the appropriate size. Your chin will
gently keep grinding his teeth down to the proper size by using the
pumice or lava stone. This is necessary because if the teeth are allowed
to become overgrown, it can become painful and even deadly to your
chin.
*** Should you choose an exercise wheel for your chin, please be very
selective. An exercise wheel should mount to the inside of the cage, with
no sidebars in which to catch or trap your chins' leg/foot/head (which
could result in broken leg, neck or amputated feet). Many chins have
also been seriously injured using wire wheels. An exercise wheel is not a
necessity at first, especially if you get your chin out to play every day. I
use one called the "flying saucer exercise wheel" ... this is my personal
choice and in my opinion the safest. There are no bars or wires to catch
the limbs/neck/head of the chin and they can see other things going on
in the room while they have their daily run. I like the tilted almost flat
surface of the wheel. The flying saucer wheels can be found at:
http://www.chin-chillas.com/index.htm. Exercise wheels should be at
least 15 inches in diameter to assure they do not interfere with the
proper spinal growth of your chin. The rim of the wheel should be large
enough that the chin can not get their teeth around the rim and chew
holes in it. Please, again, do not use wheels made of plastic.
*** An exercise ball is made of plastic, but can not be chewed on from
the inside, and should be no smaller than 15" in diameter (jumbo size),
anything smaller will affect the curvature of the chin's spine as it grows.
These balls are especially useful when you do not have the time to turn
your chin loose to play (regardless, playtime should always be closely
supervised). He can run around inside the ball and follow you around
the house or just do exploring on his on and still be fairly safe. Be sure
there are no open doors for him to go flying down the steps! Set a timer
and DO NOT leave him in the ball for more than 10 to 15 minutes (he
can become overheated easily ... the balls are almost solid and will retain
the body heat of the chinchilla). You will be surprised at how quickly he
learns to maneuver the ball. Some of my little ones enjoy 'chasing' the
dogs through the house with it. Never use it outside in, the sun will
quickly heat up the air inside the ball the same as it heats up the air in
the car. Also, they have been known to break open ... it is next to
impossible to catch a chin outside. Beware of floor heaters or vents ...
an exercise ball can become super-heated if it rest near or on them while
a chin is inside it. These balls are also known to 'break open' when a
chin really gets going good, then comes to an immobile object, so please
closely supervise your chin when it is in an exercise ball. Wash the ball
between uses.
*** Treats are a chin's specialty. Most chins love raisins, cranraisins
(dried cranberries), rose hips, dried papaya, unsalted hulled sunflower
seeds, dried whole wheat toast, Mini Wheats (not frosted), and/or fresh
thoroughly cleaned *fruit and/or *vegetables given in very small portions
~ one or two small pieces per day or every other day, about the size of a
sugar cube or smaller ... a piece of one, not of each one. Keep in mind ...
as small as a raisin is, in comparable size to a chin, a raisin is the size of
a softball!
*** "No-no Treats" Fruits and vegetables grown with a pit in them, such
as peaches, should not be given to a chinchilla. Please do not give your
chin nuts, their systems are not made to digest them and the oils in
them can end in liver failure for your chin. Please do not give them
fruits in the citrus family, such as oranges, limes, lemons, etc. Fruits or
vegetables high in water content, such as watermelon, lettuce and celery
can give your chin diarrhea.
*** Never, never give your chin meat or meat by-products (such as
rawhide bones) ... they will eat them, but it usually kills them, by
swelling and blocking their digestive tracts within 24 to 48 usually
resulting in death. Their systems are not made to digest meat. A
chinchilla can not regurgitate, so once it is in his system, it is there to
stay ... this is why chinchillas can be easily poisoned.
*** I am not a vet, all of the information I have provided is from my
personal experiences with chinchillas or those I have answered for me by
other more experienced breeders or researchers. You may find many
more questions as time goes by ... please feel free to e-mail me at
joannfryeb2@cox.net . I will be glad to try to help you in anyway I can.
There are no "dumb" questions, only regrets that they were not asked.
Please, feel free to ask anything if you are not sure about the answer. If I
do not know the answer, I will try to find it for you or, hopefully, be
able to send you in the right direction to get the answer.
*For those of you who are adopting a chinchilla from me:
If you decide this chin is not for you, at my discretion, minus the
quarantine and vet fees. I may take it back, depending on the
circumstances at the time. Regardless, I must be given first choice.
When a chin is adopted from me, after verification from a qualified
exotic pet vet, if there is any physical, in-born/heredity problem that
develops within the first year, I will refund or replace your chinchilla.
Jo Ann of Luv 'N Chins
540-345-7121 (Home)
540-353-0342 (Cell)
http://www.luvnchins.com/
joannfryeb2@cox.net
| Luv 'N Chins' Chinchilla Booklet |
| "Just the Basics" by Jo Ann McCraw |
